Monday, September 25, 2006

It's the little things.


I am trying hard to follow AUA's "don't speak Thai" rule. They ask students not to speak Thai either in or out of class until they have reached Level 5, which typically represents 800 hours of study. Other than "hello" and "thank you"- which are kind of unavoidable- I do not regularly speak any Thai. With one exception.

There is absolutely no way I am going to let AUA's rule come between me and ordering food. Sure, you can point at things and if you look confused enough, many vendors will offer a reassuring "this chicken" or ask "you want noodle?" I wouldn't starve without speaking Thai, but there just isn't any easy way, either in English or through gestures, to indicate that you want som tom (papaya salad) made only a little spicy and without the small, raw crab that is usually added- and that isn't a complicated order.

At a stir fry stall, Thai is a necessity unless you are going to stick to very basic dishes like noddles with chicken or fried rice with pork. A particular favorite of mine is sen-yai (wide noodles, as opposed to other varieties) pad kee mao (a stir fry with chili and basil as the main spices) talay (mixed seafood, usually shrimp, squid, and whatever else). Try acting that one out. Actually, that isn't even the whole order... I also have to add "pet" (spicy). Pad kee mao is is an inherently spicy dish, but my skin color usually results in very little chili being added unless I say that I want it. Chili is always a condiment at food stalls, so you can add it yourself to the dish after it is served, but it tastes better to me if it is added during cooking.

Anyway, here is what made my night. I went outside my apartment- about 30 feet, to be precise... I love living on Soi 38- to get some cow man gai*. I was really hungry, so I decided to ask if I could pay 40 baht (instead of the usual 30) and be given "a lot" of chicken. My request was met with absolutely no confusion and no asking me to repeat myself... just an enthusiastic "sure!" And more chicken. I am certain my 130 hours at AUA have helped my accent to be intelligible, and although I didn't know the exact gramatical structure for this request, I drew on what I've been hearing at AUA and must have said it correctly, or at least close enough. I was thrilled. Hey, it's the little things.


*Literally, this is just "rice with chicken" but there is more to it than that. The dish is one of my favorites, something I often get when I don't want anything spicy or oily. Steamed white meat chicken is served over a bed of rice that has been cooked in chicken stock and has a very distinct and wonderful taste. A few sliced cucumbers garnish the dish, and a spicy chili peanut sauce is available for those who want to add some heat or complexity to the meal. It is also served with a bowl of chicken broth that may or may not have a bit of chicken or vegetable in it.

For 30 baht, or like 80 cents. Or, in my case, with "chicken a lot" for $1.

1 Comments:

Blogger Unknown said...

Hi Dan, figure even Hemingway would need a little encouragement once in a while, so I am posting on your recent blog. I will give you a call in the next few days. Love,
Dad

6:31 AM  

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